SILHOUETTE, THE ANCIENT ART
Welcome photo ninja, to this not-so-secret guide on how to do silhouette photography. Silhouettes have been around way before photography, and arguably, first found on cave paintings.
But I am pretty sure that our caveman ancestors did not call it “silhouette” back then. It is not until 1759 that silhouette was named after the French finance minister Étienne de Silhouette… in a bad way to depict cheaply made portrait outlines.
Sorry France, but history is history. Read more of the story on Wikipedia if you want. Today, silhouette is a well known form of art found in paper cutouts, paintings, shadow plays, and even photography.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
WHAT IS SILHOUETTE PHOTOGRAPHY?
For the lost souls who somehow stumbled on this guide and have absolutely no idea what a silhouette is – It is nothing more than just an outline of a solid figure, and there are many examples below.
So in silhouette photography, we similarly aim to capture only the outline of the subjects. As bad as how the silhouette name may have originated, it is actually an elegant way to illustrate simplicity, mystery and maybe some drama.
While the “common photography” mostly captures well exposed photographs to tell a story, silhouette is somewhat the opposite. It leaves subjects that are featureless, giving a space for the viewer’s imaginations.
Some people may think that silhouette photography is an advanced technique and requires “special” equipment… but it is not. Really. To get started, all you need is a decent camera. Don’t worry if you don’t have an expensive “professional” camera, you can even take silhouettes with a smartphone.
As long as the smartphone allows you a certain degree of controls (change shutter speed, ISO, or a silhouette mode), that should do the magic. But to do silhouette photography comfortably, I will still recommend having some decent gear.
A decent camera may be all you need, but here are some things that might help you even more.
- Circular Polarizers Filter (CPL)
These may come in handy when you are shooting outdoors against the sky, as they do somewhat boost the color contrast. I will recommend a good old Hoya, or if budget is an issue, try out an affordable Yongnuo.
- Neutral Density Filters (ND)
Handy if you need to control the exposure, when parts of the scene is overly bright. Try the affordable Zomei or the more decent Haida.
If you are shooting indoors, an affordable Yongnuo Flash will come in very handy.
Also, some Photoshop or Lightroom work will add more magic to the photo. If you do not already have a copy, do click on the banner below to check out an offer.
SETUP AND COMPOSITION CONSIDERATIONS
The basic idea is to place your subject against a bright background, while having as little light on the subject as possible. That imbalance in light will cause the subject to be dark and nearly featureless – that will create the silhouette that we want.
That is all the magic to silhouette photography. But to create stunning photos, there’s more to consider.
CHOOSE THY STAGE
Always start by choosing where you want to shoot. Indoor or outdoor? While a bright and cloudless sky background is nice, some background elements can be interesting to include – the sun, trees, windmills, buildings, etc… If you choose to shoot indoor, some patterns on the window or door frames can be pretty interesting to include too.
|💡 Should you decide to include multiple elements, please make sure that your selected elements are well balanced in the composition. As in, since they are all solid blocks of shapes, make sure that they are uncluttered and distinct.|
THE BEST TIME TO SHOOT WHILE OUTDOORS? SUNRISE OR SUNSET.
As long as the sun is shining, any time during the day will work well to capture a good outdoor silhouette. But sunrise and sunset are probably the best times. The “golden hour” as most photographers call it, offer an interesting orange-gold sky and beautiful color tones.
There really is no right or wrong to not shooting during sunrise/sunset either. If you prefer a nice blue sky, by all means, go ahead. This is just a recommendation.
FIND A NICE OPEN AREA IF YOU ARE OUTDOOR
Remember that you need a bright background? The sky is your best bet during the day. So you will want to find a good open space where you can use the sky as your background. Not just that, you will want a clutter free open space will give you a clean silhouette with no background distractions. Open fields, parks, beaches are probably your best bet for finding open spaces.
But when you are unsure, do a search online, and just ask around on Facebook or forums.
|💡 Can’t find the sky? Try to find very bright lights instead, or fire your flash against a wall to wash it out.|
If outdoor is not your thing, you can do some indoor silhouette action as well. You can create your own bright background by “blasting” a flash onto a backdrop or wall. I will recommend using 2 flash to create a more balanced background, just make sure that the wall is clean, single color and does not have all kinds of funky patterns.
|💡 Alternatively, you can just position your subject in front of a bright window or doorway. Good for you folks on smartphones with no access to external flash units.|
SUBJECT DOES NOT MEAN JUST PEOPLE
When I mention “subject”, I don’t mean just people only. Animals, trees, buildings, and just about any object can be your subject. But since silhouette photography does not capture color and details, you will have to choose a subject with distinct shape that stands out.
Who says that silhouette photography has to be boring and static? A few trees and rocks? Yawn… Not in this age. Here are a few simple action-packed ideas that you can add to your photo:
- Jumping – mid-air action!
- Sports action – running, cycling, skateboarding, basketball, etc…
- Throwing things, add drama by flipping a cape or long scarf.
What settings should we use for silhouette photography? I think the only “correct” setting is to expose the shot to the background. Let the background pop out, and keep the subject intentionally dark. But no worries, silhouette photography is actually quite forgiving of getting the right settings. So long as the subject is underexposed, it should somewhat work.
SHOOTING IN MANUAL
These are my usual manual settings, which could be wrong. Use this as a reference, not something you must apply by force.
- The aperture is probably going to be f/5.6 or more. Because you want more depth of field to catch the distinct outlines, and you want to intentionally keep the subject underexposed.
- Shutter speed is sort of an open factor. But in general, keep it fast – Fast enough to prevent a blurred image. If you are still getting details on the subject, use an even faster shutter speed or smaller aperture.
- You probably won’t even need to deal with ISO, just tweak the shutter speed and aperture before changing the ISO. The ISO as usual, should be kept as low as possible to lower sensor noise.
|💡 Finally, remember to shoot in RAW. If your camera supports it.|
SHOOTING IN AUTO
Can you shoot in auto? Yes. But with today’s “intelligent” camera, it will most probably try to correct the exposure until everything is well lit. Which is not what we want, and we will have to switch to “silhouette mode” if your camera has one. If not, we will have to use the lock exposure feature. My usual way of doing this is to:
- Set the metering mode of the camera to “spot” or “centered”.
- Point at a bright spot in the frame.
- Press and hold the exposure lock button.
- Re-frame, focus and take a shot.
If the photo is still too bright to too dark, you can try using different bright spots for your exposure lock. This method can be used in the manual settings as well. Point at a bright spot, copy the settings recommended by the camera, then manually dial them in and adjust.
To make your life easier, make full use of exposure compensation, and it works for both manual and auto settings. For example, if you know your settings are just a tad bit off, quickly dial in a -1 EV. No need to go through the fuss of re-balancing the exposure triangle.
This will probably be a life-saver for smartphone users who cannot do manual settings or change the metering mode as well. Simply set the camera to shoot at negative EV, and watch the magic work.
The next lazy man’s tool – bracketing. For those who are unsure what bracketing does, it simply allows you to take multiple shots at different exposure values. For example, a bracket of 3 shots at 1 stop difference will be:
- First shot at 0 EV, as per your “normal” exposure.
- Second shot at -1 EV, an underexposed shot.
- Last shot at +1 EV, an overexposed shot.
What’s the use of it in silhouette photography? When we set all the brackets to negative EV, that will give you 3 shots at 0 EV, -1 EV, -2 EV. That will give you plenty of shots to choose from the negative brackets, ranging from a silhouette that still has a little bit of detail, to an entirely dark figure.
SHOOT AND CHIMP
Nothing to do with the settings, but a last important note. Always shoot, review, and adjust on the spot. The days of film are over. Better to get things right on the spot, then to regret later.
EDITING IN PHOTOSHOP
I know, there are 1001 ways to edit a photo. But this is a sharing on how I usually work. Please do not take this as an iron rule, but as a point of reference… and I use Photoshop only. Sorry to the Lightroom fans, but you can probably pull off the same in Lightroom in any way.
LET THE DARKNESS RULE
I shoot RAW. So when I open up the photo, Camera Raw fires up. In general, I love to reduce the blacks, shadows and boost the whites. Which should further darken the silhouette, and separate it from the background – giving it a more distinct contrast.
As for the highlights, it really depends on whether you want to keep the details. I generally love to reduce the highlights to recover some clouds… but it may also be a good idea to keep the clouds blown out instead to keep a clean image. Well, personal preference, I leave this up to you.
CLEAN UP THE PHOTO
Nothing too fanciful in this step, just cleaning up a few dust spots and pieces of rubbish. Select area with the marquee tool -> Edit -> Fill -> Content Aware. Alternatively, you can just use the healing brush tool.
ADD YOUR WATERMARK
Slap on your watermark, and that’s it. It’s really this simple, and that’s why I love this timeless classic so much.
All right, we have come to the end of this guide. Hope this has helped you in a way or two, and as my usual advice goes – there is nothing better than practical experience.
Go shoot, and have fun! If there are parts that are unclear in this guide, feel free to ask questions in the comments below. I try to answer every comment.