LIGHT TRAIL PHOTOGRAPHY IS FASCINATING
Welcome to my humble guide on how to do light trail photography. Back when I started photography, light trail is one of the first subjects that fascinated me. To me, traditional photography has always been capturing “a frame of time” in a photograph… Then came along a “mysterious” photo with long silky light streaks.
I had my moment of “how is this possible”, “that is an amazing photo”, and I never knew that photography could do something so interesting. I then started to dig around for more information on how these light streaks are captured on the camera, and I learnt more about long exposures.
Until today, I still love light trails and that is probably something you will love to do for a long time too. There is just something very magical about it. So with this guide, I shall share my secrets on shooting light trails.
AN HONEST DISCLOSURE
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
REQUIRED AND RECOMMENDED GEAR
At the time of writing (2017), smartphone cameras are still sadly, rather limited.
So to get started, you need to have some decent gear. Don’t worry, you don’t need any “special” gear nor strange expensive exclusive explosive equipment.
At the bare minimum, you will need these:
- A decent camera
DSLR or mirrorless camera, that is capable of manual settings and taking long exposures. Yep, one that allows you to control the shutter speed and not burst into flames after a few seconds of exposure.
- A sturdy tripod
As long as it does not break, tip over with a touch, or get blown away by the wind. I personally prefer ball head tripods. [Selens] offer pretty affordable and decent ones, or you can spend a little more on a good old reliable [Manfrotto].
Optionally, these few cheap gadgets will help you take better photos:
- Remote shutter release
Helps you keep your hands off the camera, and reduce camera shake. Does not matter if it is wired or wireless. [Nikon] [Canon] [Sony]
- 2-way or 3-way bubble spirit level
Helps you get the horizon straight. Prevents people from thinking that you are drunk while taking the photo. [Bubble spirit level]
|💡 You really don’t need to spend a fortune on camera gear. In fact, a decent camera and tripod will be sufficient.|
Also, Photoshop or Lightroom to make the photos more awesome. If you do not already have a copy, click on the banner below to check out an offer.
Just what are those light streaks? Well, they are very simply, tail lights of vehicles passing by.
In a “normal” photo with a fast shutter speed of let’s say, 1/320 second, the vehicles will probably be “frozen in movement”.
But when it comes to a slow shutter speed (long exposure) of let’s say, 15 seconds, you will catch trails of light as vehicles pass by. This is where the name “light trail photography” comes from.
|💡 Simply put – Light trail photography is capturing moving lights in a dark place with slow shutter speed.|
B-1) One very basic in light trail photography is long exposure and lights.
Which means, you need somewhere dark, and you need people to switch on their car lights. Night should be a good time to bring out the light trails.
While most people immediately think of night time city shoot, I actually prefer the blue hour (some time after sunset) more. Because only during blue hour, you can get a bit of light to catch the clouds and some nice details of the surroundings.
So if you want a nice shot with the sky and landscape, I will highly recommend to shoot during the blue hour instead. In either case, anytime after sun down is your playground for light trails.
B-2) Secondly, you need a good location to capture those lights.
Somewhere near a road of course. But don’t even think of standing in the middle of a busy road, there are better and safer places.
I love to haunt overhead bridges and tall buildings. Particularly those that are facing roads and junctions.
I usually avoid busy streets, as it draws quite a bit of unwanted attention. Usual problems while shooting on the floor may include:
- Occasion bumps, destroying your entire shot.
- Overly-friendly strangers who cannot leave you alone to take one shot.
- Accidental “expert art directors” who tells you how to shoot and frame your shot.
- Annoying children who runs into your tripod and grabs it, for like, whatever reason.
- Vehicles suddenly stopping, and a profanities screaming driver.
- Zealots who suddenly praise your photography, and spreading the love of god?
- “Alert” citizens who start questioning and interrogating your actions.
So… just get to somewhere with less human traffic, and somewhere that you can shoot in peace.
B-3) Lastly, you need moving vehicles.
Yep, cars that don’t move don’t produce any light trails. Make sure that there is some moving traffic on where you are trying to shoot.
|💡 You can also use a bright flashlight in front of the camera to create light trails. Which most of us call “light painting” instead.|
The setup? Just put the camera on the tripod and shoot away, right?
Well, that’s about everything you need to do. But there’s a little more, there are some tricks to making the shot perfect.
C-1) Always use a tripod
To get light trails, we need to hold the camera still for probably a few seconds.
If you do not have mad master ninja skills to hold absolutely still and stop breathing for 30 seconds, deploy your tripod. Tripods are your best friends and a must.
|💡 No tripod? Cannot deploy one? Find a railing or rubbish bin. Anything that you can rest your camera on.|
C-2) Use a spirit level
While you are setting up the tripod, remember to put the spirit level on too. I know, there is something called “virtual horizon” in the camera to help you get straight horizons.
But nothing is more convenient than an actual spirit level. No need to fumble with the controls to get the virtual horizon out.
There is not much difference on framing for light trail photography. The usual photography composition rules still apply, find your foreground-background interest and offer an interesting perspective.
But do take note that the light streaks will become very strong lead lines, learn to use those streaks to your advantage. Another very important thing to note here, is the direction the vehicles are travelling.
- If they are headed towards the frame, you will catch a white head light trail.
- If they are headed away from the frame, you will catch a red tail light trail.
HOW TO SHOOT
One does not simply put the camera on the auto mode and shoot blindly. Light trail photography does not work this way.
It requires some timing, patience, testing, and a little bit of the “precision touch”.
D-1) Shoot in RAW
Always shoot in RAW when your camera supports it. Can’t stress that enough. RAW files contain more data than JPEG and are extremely useful in editing.
D-2) Auto will not work
Forget about shooting in auto. It will never work here. For those who are slightly new to the exposure triangle, go full manual and get ready for a wild ride. 🙂
Not really… if you are uncomfortable, turn the camera into shutter priority mode and hit a really slow shutter speed.
D-3) The exposure triangle
Sadly, I cannot give you a magical setting that fits every light streak occasion. But I shall share my common settings, and why.
Shutter Speed : At least a good 5 seconds, should give you enough time to catch light trails. But it really depends on how fast your subject is moving.
Aperture : I tend to hit f/8 and beyond. Hey, it’s still a landscape photo, and you need a good enough depth-of-field… although bokeh light trails can be pretty interesting as well.
ISO : ISO 100. As usual, keep the ISO as low as possible unless you are forced to.
So these are my usual settings, but note, use this as reference only. The settings really depend on the situation you are in.
|💡 You can determine the shutter speed by looking at your viewfinder, and estimating how long it takes for the vehicles to travel from edge to edge of the frame.|
D-4) Bulb mode
If you want more control with the shutter speed, you can turn the camera to bulb mode. This is a little on the advanced side, but with bulb mode, you have precise control of the shutter speed.
Open the shutter when the subjects start to move, hold, and release to close the shutter when the subjects pass or stop.
D-5) Hands off the camera
In long exposures, hands off the camera and tripod as much as possible – Shakes will result in a blurry photo. Connect your remote shutter release.
If you don’t have a remote release, turn your camera to timer mode with just a one second delay.
D-6) Semi-manual focus
Use the auto-focus and focus 1/3 into the scene. Once your frame is in focus, turn that auto-focus off (into manual focus mode).
The reason is very simple. Since your camera is mounted on a tripod, the focus is not going to run.
Also, you do not want to trigger that auto-focus again, which will start to hunt on moving subjects. You want the camera to be ready to take a shot immediately, not wait for the auto-focus to hunt.
D-7) Mirror lock-up
If you are on a DSLR and remote shutter release, turn on the mirror up mode. That will further reduce camera shake, and give you an even sharper photo.
But note, the first press will lock the mirror up, the second press takes the photo – You need to press the release twice. If you are on timer mode, do give a 1 second allowance for the shutter to go off.
D-8) Take a shot
Last step, take a shot. Sounds simple enough, but not really.
You need to time the movement of subjects as it enters your frame, and estimate how much time it takes to exit.
Review your photo on the spot, and see if the light streaks are to your liking. Adjust your shutter speed on the spot.
WHAT TO NOT DO IN LIGHT TRAILS PHOTOGRAPHY
This is one of my failed shots, and a section to share on how not to do light trails.
Just in case you are wondering what went wrong, try to find light trails in this photo. You might spot it if you squint hard enough.
E-1) Too early
The time when I took this photo is 7.15pm, shortly after the sun has gone down. It was a stormy and cloudy day, so I thought, this should be dark enough. When I got back home and looked at the photo on my big screen, it all turns out that I was wrong.
It sure is all gloom and blue, but it is still not dark enough. The contrast is not enough to bring out the light trails.
E-2) Too little traffic
Usually at this hour, people will be rushing back home. But for some reason, this stretch of the highway is pretty silent.
Maybe an accident happened down the road and slowed the traffic. But if you want some spectacular streaks, wait for more traffic.
E-3) Wrong shutter speed
Light trails is not all about pushing that shutter speed to 30 seconds or more. It’s about following up with how fast the subject is moving.
This photo is a highway, meaning, vehicles are travelling fast. I should have used a much slower shutter speed of 10 to 15 seconds.
E-4) Note the street lights
Not really a mistake, but something that you should take note for the roads. Notice the overwhelming orange? Yep the street lamps cast those.
So take extra care if you are shooting oncoming traffic – it will be white head lamps vs orange street lamps. Not a pretty sight if you get your settings wrong.
The shoot does not end until you have properly edited the photo. For you purist… you might want to skip this section.
But Photoshop makes everything better. So yep, I am going to share how I usually edit my light trail photos.
F1) Camera Raw Part 1 : Adding Contrast
I shoot in RAW, so the first thing that opens in Photoshop, is Camera Raw.
My usual “magic”, is to start by correcting the exposure and adding contrast by:
- Boost the shadows and reduce the highlights – that will recover some of the lost details.
- Reduce the darks and boost the whites – recover some of the contrast.
- Optionally, boost the exposure or contrast.
- Play with the vibrance and saturation, see which one fits your taste buds.
F2) Camera Raw Part 2 : Color Grading
There are many ways to do color grading. For me, I tend to do it in the most laziest way… Using the “Split Toning” tab.
There is really no fixed rule in here – Do as you see fit. Just don’t go too crazy with the colors.
F3) Camera Raw Part 3 : Sharpen
There is no rocket science in this one, just sharpen the photo.
Just remember to not overdo it again, especially if you are shooting at a high ISO – that will make the noise more visible.
F4) Cleaning Up
Finally, clean away dust spots and pieces of rubbish with the healing brush tool (or content aware).
Slap in your watermark, and we are done!
Alright, we have come to the end of this guide. As my usual advice goes – you need to go out and try it for yourself.
If you have any questions, please feel free to drop them in the comments below, I will try to answer and improve this guide.
Go shoot, and have fun!